Richard Avedon was a Russian-Jewish photographer who worked primarily between 1946 and 2004, when he died of a cerebral haemorrhage in San Antonio, Texas. He began his career as the merchant marine in charge of taking the portraits for crewmen’s identification cards. He only kept the job for a few years before moving onto work as an advertising photographer at a department store. After a very short time, the artistic director of Harper’s Bazaar discovered him and by 1946 he was the magazine’s head photographer. Avedon was interested in fashion photography from a young age. Growing up, he read his parents’ subscriptions to Vogue, Vanity Fair and Harper’s Bazaar. He plastered his bedroom walls with his favorite photographs, particularly those of Hungarian photographer, Martin Munkacsi. However, attempts by Life Magazine to commission photojournalistic images from Avedon resulted in the photographer’s realization that he felt morally obligated not to take pictures of subjects without their knowledge or consent, as that type of photography demands. Furthermore, he did not want a magazine to muck up his pictures with some sort of layout which would take away from the mood he wished for his images to convey. The photographer continued to work in fashion photography throughout his life, receiving several retrospectives starting in 1962. Between 1980 and 1985, he began his famous series, “In the American West,” which documented the people who lived in the Texas countryside (Avedon 10-28).
The photographs Avedon did fall into two categories. Initially, his work captured the essence of city life and high society. His images typically either use New York or Paris as a background. “Homage to Munkacsi” shows a model holding a black umbrella and displaying a Pierre Cardin coat leaping off a Paris sidewalk while crossing the street. Also, Avedon primarily works with models or non-mainstream celebrities, such as Truman Capote, Dorian Leigh and Marian Anderson. His photograph, “Nastassja Kinski and the Serpent,” in which the title model is wrapped in a snake who is hissing into her ear, has become an iconic poster. Both New York City and high society come together in his group image, “Andy Warhol and Members of the Factory.” The image does not show the Factory itself, but rather, the people of the Factory interacting. The lack of backdrop suggests that the Factory is actually made such by the people who work there rather than the space itself. Forty years into his career, Avedon took a different approach to his photography through his series, “In the American West.” The series shows the people of rural Texas taken out of their natural habitat and depicted against a plain, white backdrop. Besides being visually-striking due to the black and white contrast of the photographs, many appear to have an intensity in the images which likely dissipates in their normal environments which lends to the idea that the camera deceives the eye.
Nan Goldin lived a very different life from Richard Avedon. Growing up in 1960s east coast suburbia, she used photography to display the dysfunction which was mostly kept hush at the time. When she was eleven, her teenage sister committed suicide. A week later, Goldin was seduced by an older man, who awakened her to the concept of sexuality, which became a theme throughout her life. The high school she attended used a new age form of education in which there were no classes, which only gave her more free time in which to explore sexuality. She began to photograph for her school when she turned eighteen as she became more social and began drinking more. The images she produced were a way for her to keep her memories as a sort of diary. After high school, Goldin left her home to live amongst friends, creating a new family among them which relied heavily on sexual bonds. Goldin continued her photography in fear that she might have her history as seen through her eyes in the event that one of these new “family members” ever left her in the manner which her sister did. In 1986, she published her book, “The Ballad of Sexual Dependency,” which displays a small portion of the photographs she kept (Goldin 6-9).
Goldin’s photographs tell a story involving themes of human interaction and American taboos. Typically her images are shown not singularly, but in correlating groups in order to give some sort of history. For example, “Susan in the Shower” is shown alongside “Kaethe in the Tub” and “Ryan in the Tub.” While Goldin is in many of the photographs, most of them show the people she surrounds herself with, which lends to the idea that a person is composed of their interactions with others. Even though the pictures are not of her, they still tell her life story, as she took them as she went about her daily life. Furthermore, a lot of her images are of two people rather than one, showing how humans in her life interact with each other. However, this interaction nearly always goes against the norm or displays that which American society attempts to hide. For example, Goldin seems to have no problem showing a group of men congregating in a bathroom while one urinates in her photograph, “Boys Pissing.” She shows child sexuality in the image, “Antonia,” which shows a young girl laying on her back in a dress with her legs spread. While this is a normal activity for a girl her age, it is not one which is openly discussed.
One obvious difference between the two photographers’ images is that Avedon almost always shoots in black and white while Goldin shoots in color. However, this says a lot about their opposing styles. Goldin is trying to capture a moment in her life with as much clarity as she can manage so she can hold onto a memory. Color helps facilitate the process of remembering. Meanwhile, Avedon’s photographs are more concerned with style than content. Although his images have clear themes, his real talent shows through his use of proportion, contrast and line. One of his most famous images, “Dovima with Elephants” utilizes the black and white palette. The whites and blacks of her dress appear crisper in the single palette. The elephants in the backdrop use their trunks to pose similarly to the model’s use of her arm, which creates a strong wavy line. While many of Avedon’s images appear to be improvisational, they are almost always posed, as he discovered his aversion to voyeuristic photography early in his career. Meanwhile, Goldin is very explicit in her desire to allow others to peer into her life through her photograph sets. She has no issue showing the intimate details of her life, such as her boyfriend’s post-intercourse cigarette.
In some manners, the two photographers find common ground. Both of them use photography for documentation and social commentary, but they do so in their own styles. Although he is not documenting his subjects in their typical environments, Avedon’s “In the American West” series does successfully depict the people of the Texas countryside. The use of a white background serves to make certain the viewer’s eye is focused on the subject, rather than the subject’s surroundings. However, one only sees part of the picture as they do not see any other details of the subject’s life. The series proves to be a sharp commentary on what is normal of Americans. The subjects are flawed and intense, rather than attractive and relaxed. Meanwhile, Goldin not only shows a lot of content in her photograph’s in relation to her subject, but she almost writes a biography for some of them by using pictures. One of her most famous sets involve Cookie, who many people feel they can relate to through Goldin’s sets of her. Also, her work provides commentary on a number of subjects, including sexuality, AIDS, human interactions, the nature of family, abuse and drug-use.
Works Cited
Avedon, Richard, Michael Juul. Holm, and Helle Crenzien. Richard Avedon Photographs, 1946-2004. Humlebæk, Denmark: Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, 2007. Print.
Goldin, Nan, Marvin Heiferman, Mark Holborn, and Suzanne Fletcher. The Ballad of Sexual Dependency. New York, N.Y.: Aperture Foundation, 1986. Print.